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engine shut off on drive
- TomasLT
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I can't read it too

best regards
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- 0.1 Bar perhaps???

Regards
Norbert
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- TomasLT
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finaly I point out , the exactly vacuum is -0.33 bar (10inchHg) on 850 rpm
is that correct, what would be a next step ?
BR
Tomas
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at least, all done engine works perfect, we did a small adjustments on map sensor, thank you for your comments and advices.
please tell me the correct timing for my 107, 350 slc, M116.982 ?
and what about Condenser in distributor , I read in forums, that it is unnecessary part and did cause some problems, shall I remove it or what ? Please advice.
Tomas
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- Dr-DJet
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sorry I am lost here. Vacuum level on idle was bad, I do not know whether you managed to improve it. When I hear small adjustments on MAP sensor, all alarm clocks in my head start ringing at the same time.
I do not understand your question about timing.
You can remove capacitor in ignition distributor if you have a shielded green cable from distributor to ignition module. If you have a kind of coax connector there, than that is the case. Capacitor is bad for breaker contact but necessary for undisturbed radio reeption of you have no shielded cable (as I do).
And yes, in principle you can run a M117.985 with D-Jetronic.
Viele Schraubergrüße - best regards, Dr-DJet Volker
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We checked all components, set up to original parameters.
finally my MB technician, screw in 2 revinds of inner bolt and we done, all works perfect, engine works on drive
now I want to check and to set correctly ignition timing , need data and practical advice.
Tomas
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I repeat that -0.33 Bar is bad and also 850 rpm is too high for idle. It should be 750 rpm. You still have issues here. That is most probably the reason why you have detuned your MAP sensor. But tring to compensate one error with another does not lead to good engine performance.
You can find ignition timing in 107 SL workshop manual in navigation bar above. Check jetronic.org/de/107sl-wsm/107sl-wsm-cont...-107sl-ri-engc-m116D and choose 07.500 Checking and adjusting igntion timing and dwell.
Viele Schraubergrüße - best regards, Dr-DJet Volker
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from idle adjustment specifications I found RPM between 700 - 850 is ok
for some models with A/T it is acceptable + 100 rpm
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I do not know where you found those values, but they are wrong. In chapter 074-100 above you will find 700 - 750 rpm for a standard M116 engine.
Viele Schraubergrüße - best regards, Dr-DJet Volker
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I have read all in this thread. And I do have some problems with poor idl when I put the gear in drive.
All the ignition timing is done after reading links from you, so I think that’s ok.
Two questions:
1 Where do I put a vacuum reader, to check the vacuum?
2 Maybe I want/should ckeck my MAP-sensor. I think I have read that you can do that, do you want that and how much money do you want then? Or if I send mine to you and I buy a new/repaired one from you? I will check witch one I have this evening or tomorrow. Anyway, I can see that owners before me had done some screwing.

Regards David
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I am currently on Retroclassics fare in Nürnberg. So just a short reply: You can measure vacuum on the line to MAP sensor via a T-piece. You can also measure vacuum leakage of your MAP sensor according to video in chapter 4 of my D-Jetronic compendium.
Viele Schraubergrüße - best regards, Dr-DJet Volker
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Volker, i have measured my MAP-sensor.
I have aprox 92 OHM and 319 OHM on the coils. The ground isn´t present, so far so good.
But, i can hardly pull 0.5 bar and it fall to 0.45 bar in 2 - 3 seconds. So it it is far from ok, i think i have a leakage in the MAP-sensor. What do you think? When i put my finger direct to the pump, it is easy to pull vacum, the pump is ok then.
The number, put on the sensor is: 0 280 100 012.
What do you think? Can it be repaired or exchanged?
Regards David
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the typical failure of this MAP sensor. It is a broken diaphragm and can be repaired by replacing diaphragm , retuning and resealing it.
Viele Schraubergrüße - best regards, Dr-DJet Volker
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Even that I said that the pump was ok, I thought that I might try it once more, late yesterday.
Suddenly, I can pull vacuum with my finger, put against the pump, but the needle drops. The pump is brand new but obviously, not ok any more. I cannot in any case make the needle stay. I did manage to do that some days before. Must be an inner leakage in the pump. I cannot trust it.
So, I have to arrange for another pump and try again.
But still, if it is a broken diaphragm in the end, can you replace the diaphragm, retune and reseal it.
And if, what does it cost?
Thanks and regards
David
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open the pump and apply some silicone grease to the cylinder.
That will work and is less work than to bring the pump back.
Regards
Norbert
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But i have already sent it back, i´m afraid.
I think that i have the time, it still winter for some weeks

But next time, if there is still problems i will do that.
Thanks and regards
David
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I now have a perfect working vacuum pump. The needle doesn´t move at all when i pull vacuum and put my finger to it.
The MAP sensor is broken, i can hardly pull 0.5 bar and it still fall to 0.45 bar in 2 - 3 seconds.
So back to where i started, this MAP sensor clearly has a leakage.
So the question, can you Volker help me, do you want to?
And if, how much, approximately, does it cost?
I would really appreciate it, if you can/want.
Many thanks and regards /David
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that really sounds like a broken diaphragm. And yes, I am currently on vacation. That is why I did not answer.
Viele Schraubergrüße - best regards, Dr-DJet Volker
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