Non Starting.

Hi Norbert ,I now have a bulb holder for the H4 bulb it has three cables attached Red of course to the Red pin on the volt meter which of the other cables do I attach the other volt meter point.? Also with the wiring out of the ECU  when I test does the contact to the wires have to be done quickly ie just a quick contact to the wires or is it safe ie no fear of damage to the system? I hope the bulb comes today..Thank you ,have a good weekend, Regards Nigel.

Hi Nigel,
don't care about the cable colours - connect the bulb as I described before and connect the voltmeter towards 24 (injector-power-line) and 11 (ground) with the ECU disconnected.
There will be some current (about 5 A) and the bulb will get very hot... but you will not destroy anything that has been o.k. before.
This is a load-test and I think, you will not measure the voltage that is needed to run the injector-amplifier.

I didn't think you would order a bulb but just take one out of the car or use a spare.

Regards
Norbert

Hi Norbert, So to be clear I just connect for a few seconds  without taking any readings . This is just to try and wake up the injector part of the ECU.?  Then reconnect the ECU and try pin 24 again.?  Regards Nigel.

No.
Connect the bulb and the Voltmeter and read out the Voltage with the ECU disconnected.
This is to check out the power source for the ECU.

Regards
Norbert

Hi Norbert,Just checked with the bulb .It did not light up.Re connected my original,ECU and I have 12.75 on pin 24. No sound from the pump relay or pump.Both which are new or newish.! I guess I will have to try the same with my spare ECU .which I know was working the last time I tried it on my driveway about 5/6 years ago..Regards Nigel.

Hi Nigel,
what Voltage did you measure with the bulb connected?
What you report is not possible.
The power comes from the relays, not from the ECU.
There has to be power with ignition on - with or without the ECU.

You said you checked anything around the relays. I think there is anything faulty there.
Maybe a cable, a contact or one or both relays.

When you switch ignition on, you should hear the main relays click - and the pump relays, too. The pump relays only with the ECU connected - but the main relays with or without the ECU.
Without the ECU you should have more than 12 Volts.

You can bridge the relays by making a connection between relays-pin 30/51 and 87.
But disconnect the battery before you do this - you have permanent power on pin 30.
Then you could do the test with the bulb again.

It makes no sense to test another ECU without having verified the power supply.

Regards
Norbert