Non Starting.

Hi Norbert ,Quick update I've just discovered that with the ignition on with a   test light pin 87 is on ,sorry my poor earhing when I tested before .but no supply to the pump! If it's not a silly question would it be possible to remove the double connector at pin 87 and run two cables outside the car from pin 87 to see if the pump then works ?? The light stayed on while the engine was cranking over. Regards Nigel.

Hi Nigel,
I don't know what you mean with TWO cables from pin 87.

Sure, one cable to the pump from the pin 87 - but the second one has to be ground.
No problem to run the pump using a different connection.

Regards
Norbert

Hi Norbert,I've checked again today.Ignition on ECU pin 19 and 16 ,12.50 volts pin 24,  8.67 volts What could be causing the lower voltage? The pump relay, pin 87 is dead pin 86 live and pin 85 clicks when I put the test light in to the terminal. I'm beging to think I will never get the car going .I can see two cables go from the pump relay to up and over ( my drivers side ) wheel arch to the I guess the rear window shelf ,if I'm reading the drawing right one to the fuse and one to the pump.both green and white ,but the actual pump connection under the car looks like one green and white and one brown .Does that mean there is a seperate earth connection somewhere at the back ? When are you coming to London next ? Wishful thinking .Regards Nigel.

Hi Norbert, when you say test pin 16 against 19 pins on the ECU  do you mean connecting each end of a volt meter to each pin  16 and 19 at the same time as I turn on the ignition to test the pump with voltage ie the two second OV mode.? Thank you Nigel.

Yes, Nigel - you will measure +12 V between 16 and 19 for a second or so after switching ignition on.

But you have to find out the reason for the power connection to line 24 being so bad. Maybe you have other problems, too - but it makes no sense to check out everything without repairing the fault you have already found.

Be careful...
don't forget a shortcut could damage the ECU, the harness or other components.

Regards
Norbert
 

Hi Norbert ,Thank you for your reply .I've checked the fuel pump connection plug terminals ( I took them out ) they look brand new. One cable is Green and White one is Brown.im sure this is a earth cable ,but where it earhs I cannot see. Could the low voltage at 24 and the non pump working be the ECU at fault ? Is there anyway of proving the ECU is faulty without shorting 19 and 16 with voltage? I do t want to damage the system.which is highly likely with my lack of knowledge..Regards Nigel.

Hi Nigel,
for testing the power source at pin 24 you should disconnect the ECU-plug and then install a bulb (I think a headlight-bulb will be good) between pin 24 and 11 (ground). If you don't measure about 12 Volts with ignition on, there is definitely a problem with the cable connection. The relais powers both '16' and '24', therefor it must be the cable 24.

Regards
Norbert

Hi Norbert ,Thank you for that ,Just to be clear,a would a normal test light which I have one end connected to pin 24 and the other to pin 11,this and together with exactly the same ( together with the pins of a volt meter and test light together ) for the test ? Plug removed fron the ECU. .Today I retried my spare ECU and I was surprised to hear the pump hum as it should also the pump relay was clicking,I tried to start the engine cranked for maybe 10 seconds before I realised I'd forgotten to replace the coil HT when I tried again the hum from the pump and the relay stopped clicking..Regards Nigel.Regards Nigel.

No, Nigel -
you need a ballast. The test light's current is too low.
The main light bulbs contacts have good conditions to apply a lead wire.

If you have a H4 bulb, use the middle and one of the side contacts.

Regards
Norbert

Thanks Norbert,Best Nigel.

Hi Norbert, While I'm waiting for a test light as you suggested  ,with the ignition on when I put my test light to pin 85 on thr pump relay ,the relay clicked and the pump made the normal humming sound..Does this tell you anything ? Thank you for your patience, Regards Nigel.

Hi Nigel,
the relay switches when you apply ground towards pin 85.
This is normally done by the ECU via line 19.

When you connect your test light, the 'ground' current through the light is sufficient to power the relays electromagnet.

Regards
Norbert

Hi Norbert,Thank you ,so maybe I should leave the light there so I can start !  Ha Ha..Strange one day the relay clicked and the pump hums,next day nothing.If it's not a silly question does the ECU have to be screwed down when I'm testing to ground it?. All the cables at the main relay look good and I belive cable 24 comes from there . I've looked at all the earths I can see and cleaned them..My mystery is where does the brown earth from the pump go.? Unlike the typical coupe of my car the body work is not full of rust.The general wiring all looks good.. Regards Nigel.

Hi Nigel,
why don't you do what I write and ask other questions all the time instead?
I need the result from the test I asked for:

"For testing the power source at pin 24 you should disconnect the ECU-plug and then install a bulb (I think a headlight-bulb will be good) between pin 24 and 11 (ground). If you don't measure about 12 Volts with ignition on, there is definitely a problem with the cable connection. The relais powers both '16' and '24', therefor it must be the cable 24 itself then."

Regards
Norbert

Hi Norbet apologies, will do. Regards Nigel.

Hi Norbert, I'd like to plan in advance ,if cable 24 is at fault .Could you tell me the diameter and the ampage the replacement cable should be ? Thank you ,Regards Nigel.

The cable is 0,75 mm². Use 1 mm² for the replacement.

Regards
Norbert

Thanks Norbert, Regards Nigel.

Hi Norbert ,I now have a bulb holder for the H4 bulb it has three cables attached Red of course to the Red pin on the volt meter which of the other cables do I attach the other volt meter point.? Also with the wiring out of the ECU  when I test does the contact to the wires have to be done quickly ie just a quick contact to the wires or is it safe ie no fear of damage to the system? I hope the bulb comes today..Thank you ,have a good weekend, Regards Nigel.

Hi Nigel,
don't care about the cable colours - connect the bulb as I described before and connect the voltmeter towards 24 (injector-power-line) and 11 (ground) with the ECU disconnected.
There will be some current (about 5 A) and the bulb will get very hot... but you will not destroy anything that has been o.k. before.
This is a load-test and I think, you will not measure the voltage that is needed to run the injector-amplifier.

I didn't think you would order a bulb but just take one out of the car or use a spare.

Regards
Norbert