Non Starting.

No, Nigel -
you need a ballast. The test light's current is too low.
The main light bulbs contacts have good conditions to apply a lead wire.

If you have a H4 bulb, use the middle and one of the side contacts.

Regards
Norbert

Thanks Norbert,Best Nigel.

Hi Norbert, While I'm waiting for a test light as you suggested  ,with the ignition on when I put my test light to pin 85 on thr pump relay ,the relay clicked and the pump made the normal humming sound..Does this tell you anything ? Thank you for your patience, Regards Nigel.

Hi Nigel,
the relay switches when you apply ground towards pin 85.
This is normally done by the ECU via line 19.

When you connect your test light, the 'ground' current through the light is sufficient to power the relays electromagnet.

Regards
Norbert

Hi Norbert,Thank you ,so maybe I should leave the light there so I can start !  Ha Ha..Strange one day the relay clicked and the pump hums,next day nothing.If it's not a silly question does the ECU have to be screwed down when I'm testing to ground it?. All the cables at the main relay look good and I belive cable 24 comes from there . I've looked at all the earths I can see and cleaned them..My mystery is where does the brown earth from the pump go.? Unlike the typical coupe of my car the body work is not full of rust.The general wiring all looks good.. Regards Nigel.

Hi Nigel,
why don't you do what I write and ask other questions all the time instead?
I need the result from the test I asked for:

"For testing the power source at pin 24 you should disconnect the ECU-plug and then install a bulb (I think a headlight-bulb will be good) between pin 24 and 11 (ground). If you don't measure about 12 Volts with ignition on, there is definitely a problem with the cable connection. The relais powers both '16' and '24', therefor it must be the cable 24 itself then."

Regards
Norbert

Hi Norbet apologies, will do. Regards Nigel.

Hi Norbert, I'd like to plan in advance ,if cable 24 is at fault .Could you tell me the diameter and the ampage the replacement cable should be ? Thank you ,Regards Nigel.

The cable is 0,75 mm². Use 1 mm² for the replacement.

Regards
Norbert

Thanks Norbert, Regards Nigel.

Hi Norbert ,I now have a bulb holder for the H4 bulb it has three cables attached Red of course to the Red pin on the volt meter which of the other cables do I attach the other volt meter point.? Also with the wiring out of the ECU  when I test does the contact to the wires have to be done quickly ie just a quick contact to the wires or is it safe ie no fear of damage to the system? I hope the bulb comes today..Thank you ,have a good weekend, Regards Nigel.

Hi Nigel,
don't care about the cable colours - connect the bulb as I described before and connect the voltmeter towards 24 (injector-power-line) and 11 (ground) with the ECU disconnected.
There will be some current (about 5 A) and the bulb will get very hot... but you will not destroy anything that has been o.k. before.
This is a load-test and I think, you will not measure the voltage that is needed to run the injector-amplifier.

I didn't think you would order a bulb but just take one out of the car or use a spare.

Regards
Norbert

Hi Norbert, So to be clear I just connect for a few seconds  without taking any readings . This is just to try and wake up the injector part of the ECU.?  Then reconnect the ECU and try pin 24 again.?  Regards Nigel.

No.
Connect the bulb and the Voltmeter and read out the Voltage with the ECU disconnected.
This is to check out the power source for the ECU.

Regards
Norbert

Hi Norbert,Just checked with the bulb .It did not light up.Re connected my original,ECU and I have 12.75 on pin 24. No sound from the pump relay or pump.Both which are new or newish.! I guess I will have to try the same with my spare ECU .which I know was working the last time I tried it on my driveway about 5/6 years ago..Regards Nigel.

Hi Nigel,
what Voltage did you measure with the bulb connected?
What you report is not possible.
The power comes from the relays, not from the ECU.
There has to be power with ignition on - with or without the ECU.

You said you checked anything around the relays. I think there is anything faulty there.
Maybe a cable, a contact or one or both relays.

When you switch ignition on, you should hear the main relays click - and the pump relays, too. The pump relays only with the ECU connected - but the main relays with or without the ECU.
Without the ECU you should have more than 12 Volts.

You can bridge the relays by making a connection between relays-pin 30/51 and 87.
But disconnect the battery before you do this - you have permanent power on pin 30.
Then you could do the test with the bulb again.

It makes no sense to test another ECU without having verified the power supply.

Regards
Norbert

Hi Norbert, I think I'm getting incorrect readings owing to the voltage meter pins beings a bit too thick I've ordered some needle thin ones ,as im finding it hard to make good contacts at the loom pin contacts as they are slightly set inside. .Sorry struggling amateur..Regards Nigel.

Hi Norbert ,ECU connected, ignition on,both the main relay and fuel pump relay click,but no sound from the fuel pump.As I said I will do the bulb test once I have the thin meter probs this week. Thanks ,best Nigel.

Hi Nigel,
you have to find out the reason for the fuel-pump-failure.
Could be the fuse in the little black box near the relays, a non-contacting relay, the wiring or the pump.

Regards
Norbert

Hi Norbert,The fuse is new  the relay is new ,I've also swopped it for a 2 year relay and the pump is as new .Last time I checked in this situation there was no power to the pump at the pump terminals. I've tried swapping the main relay .no joy. Could I run a cable outside the car to the live side of the pump and a seperate cable to an earth point.from the pump .If so which terminal at the relay should I connect to.? I take it you don't think this is a ECU issue ? I've seen as mentioned before two green and white cables from the relay to the wheel arch and inturn one for sure goes to the pump .Somewhere along the cable it must be split as at the plug end pump connection is a brown and the green and  white cable .At the pump relay one of these cables comes from 87 the other 30/ 51.both green and white. Regards Nigel. As the pump activated when I grounded the test light to pin 85, the lead must be OK from the relay to the pump.! Could it be a poor earth for the pump? If I connected a cable at the pump connection on the negative side to ground would this prove it?