Chapter 4 of D-Jetronic article series by Dr-DJet describes the function, adjustment and repair of the second most important part of D-Jetronic, the intake manifold pressure (MAP) sensor. It indirectly measures the amount of air sucked in by the engine and reports that to ECU. Other than today's MAP sensors it is an integral part of ECU electronics.
4.1 Overview of 3 types
The intake MAnifold Pressure (MAP) sensor is an integral part of ECU electronics. It does not simply provide a value describing current pressure like todays silicon MAP sensors. Without it ECU cannot form a basic injection pulse. That's why D-Jetronic MAP sensor cannot be replaces by a modern one. There are three different types of MAP sensors. They can be recognized by a black cap or yellowish potting and housing.
|MAP sensor type 1|
|MAP sensor type 2 (left) und type 3 (right)|
|Differential pressure switch|
Very early type 1 of MAP sensors had a short housing with potting covering adjustment screw. They do not have a full-load diaphragm, their curve is linear, only at the border it deviates a bit. At those years full-load was handled by a differential pressure switch, that switches at less than 50 (VW) or 60 mBar (Citroën) differential pressure in intake manifold to environment. It measures this with the help of an aneroid cell similar to the ones in MAP sensor. Disadvantage of this solution is that this switch will wrongly detect full-load in high altitudes as air pressure is too low. The engine will therefore burn too much fuel.
That is why a full-load diaphragm was introduced in type 2 housing, housings got a bit longer. These MAP sensors have two vents to allow daiphragm movement, but even here very few are still built without full-load diaphragm. On these MAP sensors you can adjust part-load and full-load mixture separately by 2 concentric screws and a foll-load stop screw. The linear part-load curve gets steeper from transition point between part-load and full-load. This is due to the diaphragm pressing softer than aneroid cells against the armature shaft spring. That is how armature shaft can more easily be pressed out of coils. This diaphragm is a main reason for MAP sensor failures of type 2 as over years this diaphragm starts to wear and have a tear. In the beginning MAP sensor is slightly leaking but in the end even the engine cannot create a vacuum in MAP sensor anymore. Then it is totally unusable. During part-load this diaphragm rest at a part-load stop and under full load (meaning a pressure close to air pressure) can bend till full-load stop. Mercedes-Benz describes in its workshop manual WIS, how to open, disassemble and adjust such a MAP sensor. In my opinion that is highly risky and I recommend not to do it!. MAP sensor normally do not get mis-tuned. Often you hear discussions whether this type has an altitude compensation or not. NO, because none of the aneroid cells has any contact to outside air pressure. It is true that outside air pressure presses through vents against full-load diaphragm. But that can only have a slight effect on full-load curve in high altitudes, never in part-load. That's why I do not call it an altitude compensation.
Third type of MAP sensor has a black cover and we are back to a linear curve without full-load diaphragm. Full-load here is handled via a full-load contact in throttle switch. Additionally one of the aneroid cells has a direct vent to outside air and that is how altitude compensation is done. The higher the altitude, the more the armature shaft spring is pushed out of the coils. Tuning of this MAP sensor is easily done by just removing the black cover. Of course at the same time that is a curse. Some "specialists" try this to solve problems they have in other areas of their ignition and injection. Turning this screw should only done by people who have references for proper tuning at hand.
4.2 Construction of a MAP sensor
|Coil, armature shaft and spring|
|Aneroid cells of type 1 and 2 left and type 3 right|
Every MAP sensor consists of a coil with primary and secondary winding and a movable armature shaft, that will change coil inductance while moving. This shaft is moved by 2 aneroid cells that expand with increasing vacuum (respectively only one in type 3). An aneroid cell is simply a pair of embossed copper foils that have been put together under vacuum. That makes them stick together under air pressure and slight vacuum. Embossment determines how much these cells will be compressed under normal air pressure. With increasing vacuum it will expand and pushes the armature shaft against the spring out of the coil. This expansion is linear with vacuum and will only change with the presence of full-load diaphragm. The pushing out of armature shaft by aneroid cells with increasing vacuum - or less engine revolutions - creates a decrease of inductance. Anticipating your question, I do not know of any source for the aneroid cells. If they tear by stress or applied pressure, only Bosch can cure that for a lot of money (03/2016: 349€ to 599€) today. Mostly this happens by LPG backfire or someone blowing into the MAP sensor. In type 2 full-load diaphragm is normally pressed against a metal plate (part-load stop) as long as vacuum is more than 0.15 Bar below air pressure. Only below this differential pressure the spring is strong enough to push the diaphragm away from this part-load stop towards the outer housing. Embossment of this diaphragm acts like a spring, but it is softer than the armature shaft spring. That is why movement of the diaphragm and armature shaft is then bigger with pressure changes and armature shaft can slide quicker back into coil. Additionally these sensors have a hex full-load stop screw (visible under potting), that defines the end of movement of the diaphragm when differential pressure between inside and outside comes close to 0. This prevents the diaphragm to immediately tear with pressure peaks. But it should not happen anyhow. However a LPG backfire will kill this diaphragm for sure. After 40 years these diaphragms tend to wear off and tear.
The inner part of a MAP sensor is sealed against atmosphere via 2 O-rings and a membrane or via second aneroid cell. Housing consists of two aluminum halfs, that are sealed by a rectangular O-ring. Early versions fix these 2 halfs via 4 slotted screws M4 that do not stick out from housing in the back. Later versions prevent curious mechanics from opening it via rivets. I do not know exactly in which year Bosch changed from screws to rivets, but for sure type 3 MAP sensors always had rivets.Mercedes-Benz describes in its workshop manual WIS how to drill out rivets and open the MAP sensor for re-tuning it. I can only strongly recommend you not to do that! I know more than one case where people had to go to Bosch for an overhaul. That cost 400€ in 2012, nowadays in 03/2014 it is 349€ to 599€. It is neither easy to get it properly sealed again and you have a high risk to destroy the fragile diaphragm. Type 3 sensors with black cover can easily be adjusted from outside by warming out this cover in hot water and removing it. For type 1 and type 2 I recommend to remove potting and then access tuning screws. You will find one (type 1) or two concentric (type 2) screws there. MAP sensors are always mounted with rubber feet to dampen car vibrations. It should also not be mounted in driving direction but orthogonal to it to avoid pressure on armature shalft from braking and acceleration.
Toda's technology to measure intake manifold pressure is a pressure sensitive silicon chip that delivers a highly precise analog signal in proportion to pressure. It is more precise than our MAP sensors by a magnitude. D-Jetronic MAP sensors by my experience have a tolerance of 2% around my references. But remember, ECU needs this coil and inductance to form the basic injection pulse. Varying inductance changes voltage thresholds and that in consequence together with the other sensors broadens or narrows the resulting injection pulse from PWM. At those years that was a clever idea of Bosch and Bendix developers, but it prevents us today from using a cheap and modern MAP sensor with D-Jetronic.
What is then the difference between MAP sensor of same type 1 to 3? As I assume that housing, coils, diaphragms are always the same within type 1 to 3 sensors, it is 2 parameters: Spring constant of armature shaft spring, aneroid cells and of course how they are tuned. Tuning screws can only do a parallel shift of curves, the slope is done by the springs and aneroid cells.
|Type 2 with full-load transition metal plate, part-load screw (silver) and full-load screw (yellow, behind)|
Even that I describe here how to re-tune your MAP sensor, let me again clearly warn you to do so or even open them. In my experience they normally either start to leak or aneroid cells tear and then you have no change of inductance over pressure anymore. But they do not re-tune by itself. So please take my word and do not try to re-tune them. And again, stay away from MAP sensors that have srews while they should have rivets, have cross-head screws, miss their black cover or it is askew or where potting has been removed. Whoever still wants to try, continue to read here. For type 3 MAP sensors a 4 mm hex tool is enough for tuning. Screwing in leads to lower inductance (as armature shaft is pressed out of coil), screwing out to higher. I testes a 0 280 100 112 sensor and found a change of 0.12 Henry per revolution (this value heavily depends on measuring tools). Type 1 has one slotted screw, while type 2 has two concentric screws under full-load stop screw. The inner slotted screw changes part-load curve like I described for type 3. So screwing in decreases and screwing out increases inductance. The outer 7 mm hex screw (see image tuning screws) in type 2 defines part-load stop or the transition between part-load and full-load curve. When you change that be sure that the inner slotted screw is also turned the same way or you change part-load curve again.The big screw covering these 2 defines full-load stop where the diaphragm rests when there is no pressure in MAP sensor. In detail
|MAP type||Tuning screw||How to turn||Result|
|Type 1||Part-load screw||right (in)||Part-load gets richer, as curve is shifted up|
|left (out)||Part-load gets leaner|
|Type 2||Part-load screw (slot screw)||right (in)||Part-load gets richer, as curve is shifted up|
|left (out)||Part-load gets leaner|
|Type 2||Full-load transition screw (hex 7 mm, turn together with part-load screw!)||right (in)||Full-load transition starts later as diaphragm has more tension|
|left (out)||Full-load transition starts earlier as diaphragm has less tension|
|Type 2||Full-load stop screw||right (in)||Maximum movement of diaphragm / inductance is reached earlier|
|left (out)||Maximum movement of diaphragm / inductance is reached later|
|Type 3||Part-load screw (hex 4 mm)||right (in)||Part-load gets richer, as curve is shifted up|
|left (out)||Part-load gets leaner|
|Tuning screws of type 2|
Various MAP sensors of same type at least vary in spring constant and tuning. I am not yet sure, whether there are varying diaphragm spring constants for varying slope of full-load curves in type 2. So far I have only seem similar values. As a result, you cannot simply swap MAP sensors with different Bosch numbers, even if they are of same type. I have been told by experienced workshops that they e.g. use 0 280 100 111 MAP sensor of MV 280 engine in MB 450 engines. It will run, but see the problem yourself:
|Comparison of MAP sensors: 012 is of type 2 with full-load transition, 111 and 112 are both of type 3|
As you can easily notice, 0 280 100 111 lies about 15% above 0 280 100 112 (original one for MB 450). If you use it in MB 450, you will burn accordingly more fuel. That is why a price difference of 100€ is quickly eaten up by higher fuel consumption in part-load and full-load. If you do the change the other way round, you risk your engine by having too lean a mixture, it can go as far as overheating the engine and kill a piston. You can also see that they give similar values in idle-run. So please do me a favor and only use MAP sensors that are meant for your engine. And if you disassemble it, be sure that you know how to retune it afterwards.
Sometimes I am asked whether I can hand out my reference values. Unfortunately not, as inductance varies heavily with the way how you measure. I use a Wheatstone bridge with an excitation frequency close to engine speed. Your device wil measure and differently and create totally different reulsts, I tried. Before I build up a reference, I meaure at least three different MAP sensors and look at their deviation. If it is okay, I dare use it as a reference for further testing other MAP sensors of same Bosch number.
4.4 Testing and repairing a MAP sensor
|Testing MAP sensor|
|Torn diaphragm in type 2 with part-load screw and full-load stop|
Bosch describes in its customer service manuals how to measure primary and secondary coils with 90 Ω (tolerance 80 Ω to 120 Ω) and 360 Ω (tolerance 300 Ω to 400 Ω) plus a test on wrong ground connection plus a leakage test. So far I never saw a broken coil. When doing the leakage test, be sure to use a manual vacuum pump so that you can see if applied vacuum falls quickly. As a rule of thumb: Pull a vacuum of 0.5 Bar. If it takes more than 10 seconds to fall to 0.45 Bar vacuum, then it is likely okay. If not you either have a starting leakage or if you even cannot apply vacuum, then you definitely have a major problem with either your MAP sensor or your pump.
Most sensitive is type 2, full-load diaphragm is only 0.05 mm thick and is going to tear one day. The more it tears, the faster pressure will fall until it cannot be kept at all. As you now understood coil resistance is not even half the truth and unfortunately no proof for a perfectly working MAP sensor. I built a test stand with a Wheatstone bridge, that measures map sensor inductance with an excitation frequency similar to the one used by ECU. I can also adjust environmental pressure and thus run vacuum against this defined environmental pressure as differential presssure. Only type 1 sensors do not need adjustment of environmental pressure for tuning them, type 2 and type 3 do! During years I have measured every MAP sensor I could buy or otherwise get hold of in steps. From these samples I created references for all MB, Citroen, Opel and most BMW and Volvo as well as some Volkswagen types and the single Lancia MAP sensor. Of course I will extend my references continuously. But I need your help! Please let me measure your MAP sensors to build up more references as long as they are still okay. It pays off for you as well, Harlad learned here that his replacement MAP sensor was in better condition than the one he had mounted and since then his car runs much better. If I verify a sensor, I test it on my test stand under defined environmental pressure and vacuum and compare to my references. Then I can exactly say whether a MAP sensor leaks and whether part-load, full-load transition and full-load curve fits. If possible, I adjust it to references and make a test protocol. I am also able to repair broken full-load diaphragms in my collection of type 2 sensors. Unfortunately due to the low number of diaphragms, it is costly to build them. I do not sell diaphragms as I believe that it makes no sense for you to replace and adjsut 3 overlapping screws without proper references. I do not advice you to replace diaphragms yourself as you would need to adjust environmental pressure and verify part-load, full-load and full-load stop against references. For those who wnat to try, there is a supplier in the US. When I repair a MAP sensor, I leave potting for optical reasons in place and tune and reopen as often as necessary. Bosch Classic does this differently. They remove and renew potting and they use ugly Torx screws for closing the housing. Hopefully the renewed potting would also make you stay away from tuning screws.
I myself can only replace diaphragms where I have already built up references. So if you want to support me in doing so, send me your working MAP sensors for a measurement (see list below for missing ones). I have not yet found a way to replace aneroid cells (and I did not yet have a broken one too). That's what only Bosch can do for currently (03/2016) 349€ to 599€. Type 3 MAP sensors tend to be more robust, but I have seen leaking ones here as well. They on the other hand are most sensitive to correct environmental pressure. Only type 1 sensors do not need any adjustment of environmental pressure as they have no altitude compensation or daiphragm and can therefore be measured in a car.
I always have some MAP sensors in my stock. If you need one, let me know. I wil check what I have in my drawer. My experience in buying them on eBay is negative. I have tested a number of those that people have bought there and they tend to be broken ones. If they were tested at all, it was mostly primary and secondary coil resistance, not even air leakage.. Watch especially removed black covers, missing potting, rivets or wrong screws. And always ask for a proper leakage test!
4.5 List of all MAP sensors, usage and compatibility
After the list of all ECUs I have also done one for all MAP sensors. You notice that I still miss many references.If you have a working MAP sensor that I am missing, please send it to me for a short measureing. I take it to my test stand and send it back to you immediately. MAP sensors with mark ✓(SG) can only be verified and tuned together with your ECU. Then I use old references for Bosch workshops with increased tolerances and less adjustment points. Additionally I miss the Vega and 3 prototypes for BMW, MB and Volvo USA. Only after such a reference I am able to help when your MAP sensor is broken or leaking. When measuring I sometimes also notice that your MAP sensor is already leaking. Then I cannot use it as a reference, but you can change to another working one you might have.
Please support my work! My current quote for reference values is only 35/64 = 55% or 95% with less accuracy Bosch references.
There are still pilot types ✘ (no reference) and several 0 (measured but leaking). I have to fill my table completely with ✓(reference taken), even those with (ECU) mark and that is only possible with your help! Until today I received great help from nordfisch, Harald914, hgk, Hans-Joachim, Jörg and AliMente. Many thanks to you.
|BoschNumber||Hersteller / OEM no.||Steuergerät / ECU||T|
|Fahrzeug car||Fahrzeug car||Fahrzeug car||Fahrzeug car||Fahrzeug car||Bemerkung remark||Ersatz replace|
|0280100001,002||022906051||0280000007||1||✓(ECU)||0||VW Typ 3 1.6 8/67-7/69||0280000007|
|0280100003,004||311905051B||0280000001, 0280000003||2||✓(ECU)||1||VW 411 8/69-4/70||Porsche 914 1.7 10/69-4/70|
|0280100003,004 FD190||311905051B||0280000001, 0280000003||2||✓||1||VW 411 8/69-4/70||Porsche 914 1.7 10/69-4/70|
|0280100005||8 50 075||0280001001, 0280001005||2||✓||1||Opel Admiral 3/69-6/71||Opel Diplomat 3/69-6/71|
|0280100006||A 001 542 91 17||0280001002, 0280001004, 0280001006 (Schweden ab 10/70)||2||✓||1||MB 250 CE 4/69-11/70|
|0280100006 FD905||A 001 542 91 17||0280001002, 0280001004, 0280001006 (Schweden ab 10/70)||2||✓||1||MB 250 CE 4/69-11/70|
|0280100007,008||311906051C||0280000005, 0280000019||2||✓(ECU)||1||VW Typ 3 8/69-7/71||Schlitze oben, da hängend montiert|
|0280100007,008 FD910||311906051C||0280000005, 0280000019||2||✓(ECU)||1||VW Typ 3 8/69-7/71||Schlitze oben, da hängend montiert|
|0280100009||83 7602||0280000010||2||✓(ECU)||1||Saab 99E 1.7 11/69-7/71|
|0280100010||241 725||0280000009, 0280000017||2||✓||1||Volvo 1800 2.0E 9/69-5/71|
|0280100011||DX.144-263A||0280000011 (nicht ge,ge-ge), 0280000022, 0280000042 (Ersatz)||1||✓||0||Citroen DS21 ie 2.2 10/69-5/72|
|0280100012||A 002 542 16 17||0280002001, 0280002002, 0280002004, 0280002007||2||✓||1||1||MB W111 Cp/Cab 3.5 1/70-12/71||MB 300SE/L 3.5 1/70-7/72||MB 280 SE/L 3.5 3/71-8/72||MB 350SL/C 3.5 5/71-2/76||MB 350 SE/L 3.5 8/72-2/76|
|0280100013||8 50 077||0280001003, 0280001010||2||✓||1||Opel Commodore GSE 2.5 4/70-12/71|
|0280100014||0280001001, 0280001005||2||✓||1||Opel Admiral 3/69-6/71 Automatik||Opel Diplomat 3/69-6/71 Automatik|
|0280100015 bl||243 183||0280000034 (1800), 0280001009 (160)||2||✓||1||Volvo 1800 2.0E 6/71-7/73||Volvo 140 2.0E 6/71-7/73||VOLVO 160 Injection 3.0 9/71-7/74|
|0280100016,017||243 183||0280000005, 0280000019, 0280000028, 0280000048||2||✓(ECU)||1||VW Typ 3 (Höhen) 02.1970 - 07.1973|
|0280100018||83 8070||0280000018||2||✓(ECU)||1||Saab 99EA 1.9E 8/70-8/73|
|0280100019,020||022906051A||0280000007, 0280000013, 0280000015||2||✓||1||VW 411 5/70-7/71||Porsche 914 5/70-7/71||0280000027, 0280000037|
|0280100023 sw/bk||DX.144-263B||0280000011 ge,ge-ge||1||✓(ECU)||0||Citroen DS21 ie|
|0280100023 sw/bk FD026||DX.144-263B||0280000011 ge,ge-ge||1||✓||0||Citroen DS21 ie|
|0280100024||8 22 77 331||0280000021||2||✓||1||Lancia 2000 Berlina ie 2.0 10/72-11/73||Lancia 2000 Coupe HF 11/71-12/73|
|0280100025||A 002 542 22 17||0280001006||2||✓||1||MB 250CE 2.5 1/71-4/72|
|0280100027,028||022906051B||0280000015||2||✓(ECU)||1||VW 411 1.7 7/70-7/71 Automatik||0280100037|
|0280100030||13 63 1 351 827||0280001007||2||✓||1||BMW Si 3.0 2/72-11/75||BMW CSi 7/71-3/76||BMW CSL 3.2 1/74-3/76||farblos/colorless|
|0280100030 bl FD129||0280001007 bl||2||✓||1||BMW Si 3.0 2/72-11/75||BMW CSi 7/71-3/76||BMW CSL 3.2 1/74-3/76|
|0280100030 ro/re FD132||13 63 8 702 851||0280001007 ro/re||2||✓(ECU)||1||BMW Si 3.0 2/72-11/75||BMW CSi 7/71-3/76||BMW CSL 3.2 1/74-3/76|
|0280100030 gn ? FD523||0280001007 ro/re||2||✓(ECU)||1||BMW Si 3.0 2/72-11/75||BMW CSi 7/71-3/76||BMW CSL 3.2 1/74-3/76||rot/red or gn ?|
|0280100030 gn FD532||13 63 1 360 678||0280001007 ro/re||2||✓||1||BMW Si 3.0 2/72-11/75||BMW CSi 7/71-3/76||BMW CSL 3.2 1/74-3/76|
|0280100031||77 00 545 776||0280000025||2||✓(ECU)||1||Renault 17 1.6 USA 6/72-7/74|
|0280100031 FD129||77 00 545 776||0280000025||2||✓(ECU)||1||Renault 17 1.6 USA 6/72-7/74|
|0280100031 FD222||77 00 545 776||0280000025||2||✓(ECU)||1||Renault 17 1.6 USA 6/72-7/74|
|0280100035 ge?||243 316||0280000034||2||✓||1||Volvo 1800 2.0E (NV, USA) 9/71-6/72||Volvo 140 2.0E (NV, USA) 9/71-6/72||Volvo 164 3.0E (USA) without exhaust return 9/71-7/74||Volvo 164 3.0E (J) with BW35 gearbox 9/71-7/74|
|0280100036||5 413 479 N||0280001012||1||✓||0||CITROEN SM Injection 2.7 5/72-7/75|
|0280100037,038 br||022906051C||0280000032 (411 USA Automatik), 0280000037 (411, 914 2.0), 0280000040 (914 2.0)||2||✓||1||1||VW 411 1.7 8/71-7/72||Porsche 914 2.0 8/72-4/73||0280100041|
|0280100041,042||022906051E||0280000032, 0280000037 (USA)||2||✓||1||Porsche 914 1.7 8/71-7/72||laut VW: Ersatz für alle Typ 4 SDF bis 6/72|
|0280100043,044||039906051||0280000043, 0280000052||2||✓||1||Porsche 914 2.0 5/73-12/75|
|0280100047||0280001013||2||✘||1||BMW Si 3.0 USA 2/72-11/75||BMW CSi USA 7/71-3/76||prototype, only mentioned in workshop manual, not in equipment list|
|0280100048 bl||5 429 448P||0280000047||1||✓||0||1||Citroen DS23 injection 9/72-7/75|
|0280100049,050||022906051E||0280000040, 0280000037||2||✓||1||VW 412 8/72-10/73||VW 412 USA 7/72-10/73||Porsche 914 1.7 8/72-10/73||Porsche 914 1.7 USA 7/72-10/73|
|0280100053||460 835||0280001009||2||✓(ECU)||1||VOLVO 160 Injection 3.0 (USA) with exhaust return 9/71-4/73||VOLVO 160 Injection 3.0 (USA without Cal.) with exhaust return 5/73-7/74||0280100059|
|0280100054||460 866||0280000034||2||✓||1||Volvo 1800 2.0E 7/72-7/73||Volvo 140 2.0E 7/72-7/73||0280100039|
|0280100055||0280000025||2||✓(ECU)||1||Renault Alpine A110,A310 1.6 1/73-12/75|
|0280100056||0280000016||2||✓(ECU)||1||VOLVO 160 Injection Kalifornien 3.0 5/73-7/74||0280100059|
|0280100059||461 583||0280001017||2||0||1||VOLVO 160 Injection USA Automatik 3.0 8/74-8/75|
|0280100063||C.42767, Lucas 2PS 73140A||0280001018, Lucas 3CU 83356A||2||✓(ECU)||1||Jaguar XJ12 5.3 ->7P.31112||Jaguar XJS 5.3 -> 8S5202||Jaguar XJS 5.3 AUS -> 7P.29400|
|0280100066||451 666||0280001017||2||✓(ECU)||1||VOLVO 160 Injection USA 3.0 manual gear box 8/74-8/75|
|0280100068 ws/br||C.46171, Lucas 2PS 73163||0280001023, Lucas 3CU 83477B (Autom)
0280001024, Lucas 3CU 83485B (Manuell)
|2||✓||1||Jaguar XJ12 5.3 7P.31113->||Jaguar XJS 5.3 8S5203->|
|0280100100 bl A||A 002 542 28 17||0280002005, 0280002008||3||✓||0||1||MB 280 SE/L 4.5 7/71-11/72||MB 450SL/C 4.5 USA 8/71-7/74||MB 450SE/L 4.5 USA 12/72-7/74|
|0280100100 bl A FD330||A 002 542 28 17||0280002005, 0280002008||3||✓||0||1||MB 280 SE/L 4.5 7/71-11/72||MB 450SL/C 4.5 USA 8/71-7/74||MB 450SE/L 4.5 USA 12/72-7/74|
|0280100101 gn||311906051D||0280000028||3||✓||0||VW Typ 3 8/71-7/72|
|0280100105||89 60 231||0280001010||3||✓||0||Opel Admiral 2.8E 7/71-2/75||Opel Diplomat 2.8E 7/71-2/75||Opel Commodore 2.8E 7/72-2/75|
|0280100106||311906051E||028000028, 0280000048||3||✓(ECU)||0||VW Typ 3 Kalifornientest 8/71-7/73|
|0280100111 ws E||A 002 542 33 17||028001008, 0280001015||3||✓||0||1||MB 280E 2.8 6/72-12/76||MB 280CE 2.8 6/72-1/77||MB 280 SE 2.8 9/72-7/76||MB 280 SL/C 2.8 8/74-5/76|
|0280100112 bl E||A 002 542 32 17||028002003, 0280002009||3||✓||0||1||MB 450SL/C 4.5 1/73-11/75||MB 450SE/L 4.5 1/73-11/75|
|0280100115||83 5071||028000039||3||✓(ECU)||0||Saab 99 EMS 2.0 1/72-7/73|
|0280100116 sw/bk||311906051E||028000048||3||✓(ECU)||0||VW Typ 3 1.6 8/72-7/73|
|0280100118 gn||83 54 93||028000039||3||✓(ECU)||0||Saab 99 EMS 2.0 8/73-7/74|
|0280100120||3||✘||0||1||GM Chevrolet Cosworth Vega E.F.I. 75-76||no real D-Jetronic|
|0280100121 bl A||0280002012||3||✘||0||1||MB 450SL/C 4.5 USA m. Reaktor||Pilotversuch ?|
|0280100122 bl A||A 003 542 78 17||0280002014, 0280002014||3||✓||0||1||MB 450SL/C 4.5 USA 8/74-8/75||MB 450SE/L 4.5 USA 5/74-8/75|
|0280100123 ge||C.42948, Lucas 2PS 73152A||0280001018 (XJ12 AUS)
0280001025 (XJS AUS 8511800->)
|3||✓||0||0||Jaguar XJ12 5.3 USA ->7P.31320||Jaguar XJ12 5.3 AUS 7P.29401||Jaguar XJS 5.3 USA ->8S5461||Jaguar XJS 5.3 AUS (all)|
|0280100124||92 92 700||0280001022||3||✓||0||Opel Admiral 2.8E 3/75-7/76||Opel Diplomat 2.8E 3/75-1/78||Opel Commodore 2.8E 3/75-7/78|
|0280100124 FD531||92 92 700||0280001022||3||✓||0||Opel Admiral 2.8E 3/75-7/76||Opel Diplomat 2.8E 3/75-1/78||Opel Commodore 2.8E 3/75-7/78|
|0280100125 ge/br||C.46172, Lucas 2PS 73164A||0280001023
0280001025 (AUS, CAL 8S11800->)
|3||✓(ECU)||0||Jaguar XJ12 5.3 USA 7P.31321 ->||Jaguar XJS 5.3 USA, CAL||Jaguar XJS 5.3 AUS 8S11800->|
Your Dr-DJet (Volker)