D-Jetronic Problem!!!!!

You are right! We did send our ECU with MAP to BOSH per their request. However, I am not sure if they have checked or repaired the MAP. The total fee is €688,9 without details of whether MAP is checked/ repaired. I dont want to resend the parts to BOSH again, is there any other solution that I could fix it at my end if we think it is a MAP problem? Thanks!

Hi,

that sounds very cheap for Bosch Classic. Their ECU repairused to be above 900€ for ECU. Why do you not just ask them. Sounds easy and no need to send your MAP sensor.

Hi. I have asked BOSH to solve it for me, but no reply from them yet. The reason I do not want to ship the MAP to them again is because I would need to contact a local garage and go through a troublesome shipping process, as BOSH does not work with retail customer. Therefore, I would like to seek alternative solution here if possible.

Attached the estimate from BOSH: drive.google.com/file/d/1ZeeZHL8Yr9wLr8J...Jqr/view?usp=sharing
Attached my follow-up email to BOSH regarding the issue: drive.google.com/file/d/1m7U42NSVswN8K3A...2sy/view?usp=sharing

Thanks!

Hi,

that is very interesting that they tested your ECU and MAP sensor, found nothing and replaced "age related" components at a special price. Normally they charge more than 900€ for repair.

However they have tested your MAP sensor as they write. So you should trust it and you cannot test it any better than them. You can verify windings resistance and vacuum leakage. To me it looks like you have another problem with your engine mechanics, ignition, wiring or D-Jetronic. Your ECU and MAP sensor seem okay even before you sent them to Bosch. They dound no problem with both.

Thanks for your advice! Before sending to BOSH for repairing, I have checked according to your recommended list (e.g., compression, valve clearance, valve timing, ignition distribution firing timing, ignition wire/ cap, ECU wiring, other related sensor). After they returned, it is perfect. There is only one problem regarding idling mixture being lean. To my limited knowledge, any error in the above list should not only apply to idling exclusively.

Maybe I am missing something here. Appreciate any comment/ input. For now, let me run another check according to the list and get back to you if any update. Thanks!

P.S. I think it worth the price. And, btw am I picking bones out of egg here?

Hi there! Hope you guys are doing well. Good to be back to this informative forum and keep up my learning. I have taken advice from Dr-DJet, checking compression, compression leaking, vacuum, valve timing, timing chain, valve clearance, ignition system, ignition timing, and they are in good condition. Please advise if anything I missed here for the check-up.

After spending few months reading through and check according to the articles and comments here, here are some observations and questions that I would like to seek help from experts here:

1) I have check the ohm and continuity of all pins at the ECU connect plug. All pins are on par with the specification suggested by the Dr-DJet's checklist. Only Pin 18's start signal has only 9.9v, which is below 11.5v suggested by the forum. Does any expert here know if this situation will cause the leanness problem of my car?

2) I tried to disconnect air temperature sensor, the CO will go up to 6.6%. Then, I turn the CO leaner at the ECU, which bring the CO to 3%. However, when the the car hits 2000~2500 RPM, the CO was 4.5%, which I think is too rich in this case. May I know what would be the adverse effects if I keep the car without air temperature sensor (running rich instead)?

3) Can I turn fuel pressure 2.1 bar, would it drives up the CO while idling? Any adverse effects if I drive up the CO in this way?

Any comments and suggestions are well appreciated! Thanks again for your help in advance!