Saab 99 E
- Franks99E
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I just joint the site today so I'm finding my way on it.
I've a Saab 99 E from 1972 with a Triumph 1850cc engine (I think because it is not the original engine,
the early models were 1700cc) and (ofcourse) a D-jetronic.
I've 2 major questions although the Saab runs allright;
can anybody check / overhaul my ECU 0 280 000 010 (according to docs 0 280 000 018?) and modify it.
Saab in those days supplied an ECU with and without CO adjustment knob.
Unfortunately my ECU has no knob and the CO is far to high; approx. 6,5%.
Another thing is that my auxilary valve 0 280 140 012 broke down.
I tried to repair it with a bi-pole kit from Sweden but it doesn't work.
Can anyone advise how to fix it ? or does anyone have such a part available ?
Kind regards,
Frank
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- nordfisch
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a warm Welcome to the forum with your car. Quite rare here...
Following Wikipedia, the engine is the original one for your 1972 model.
The 99E and 99EA were equipped with different engines and different D-Jet-components.
You can download information here: www.bosch-classic.com/de/en/products/veh...rts_and_accessories/
Make sure you search for the 'EA' model. For example, the'E' is equipped with yellow injectors, the 'EA' with green ones.
Your ...010 ECU is meant for the earlier engine.
An ...018 is offered at ebay. (Wait, maybe one user here has one to sell, too...)
Maybe your auxiliary air valve is still available new at Bosch... they write 'discontinued', but not 'sold out'.
But ask for the price before ordering it...
Regards
Norbert
edit: Did you check your MAP sensor for vacuum leaks? Follow the instruction in the compendium. This could be the reason for the high CO.
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- Dr-DJet
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It is seldom that I see Saab engines here on Jetronic.org.
If you would speak German I would recommend Bosch Kundendienstanleitung for your car . Unfortunately thisis only Prüfwerte. Normally such workshop manual consists of 3 booklets. I should even have them in double copy. I read these documents about your car. There is a section about 1.7 and 1.85 l engine and one about 2.0 l engine. So 1.85l seems original from that reading.
It seems that 1.85l engine was also equipped with 0 280 000 010 ECU with MAP sensor 0 280 100 009 and 2,3 kp/cm² fuel pressure plus yellow (black) injectors. Later it was switched to 0 280 100 018 with MAP sensor 0 280 100 018 and 2.0 kp/cm² fuel pressure plus green (black) injectors. In the very beginning injectors were not color coded and all black.
I do not have the Saab 0 280 000 018 nor the MAP sensor 018 in stock. So I cannot help with that. If I had I would be able to test and repair them. But I never took Saab equipment to my stock as I was never ever asked for it in a workshop. I would have used green injectors. I also do not have your AAV 0 280 140 012. But it is a standard part and repairable. Bosch does not supply any more and it is only Mercedes-Benz who made Bosch manufacture new ones.
Viele Schraubergrüße - best regards, Dr-DJet Volker
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- Dr-DJet
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according to Bosch historic equipment list it is 0 280 000 010 for all 1,7 l engines and 0 280 000 018 for all 1.85 l engines. Kundendienstanleitung is not as clear here.
Viele Schraubergrüße - best regards, Dr-DJet Volker
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- Franks99E
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According to the Saab Workshopmanual, Saab also delivered the 010 ECU and matching sensor in the 1850 models;
please see attachment.
I've a type 2 MAP sensor I think but it was tempered with by judging the screw at the back.
Is it wise if it try to adjust the screw ? It looks to be sealed.
@ Volker; can you check and, preferably modify the ECU with adjustment knob, if I send it to you ?
And shall I also send you the MAP sensor ? It works so you can use the data ?
Looking forward to your reply
Regards,
Frank
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- nordfisch
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do you have yellow or green injectors installed?
Does your chassis # fit the data in the right column of the Saab document?
Why do you think your map sensor has been touched?
Please send a photo of the seal
Regards
Norbert
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- Dr-DJet
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there are more modifications in 018 ECU than just a hole and a rheostat. I cannnot turn 010 into an 018 easily. It makes no sense. If you have a 018 MAP sensor it makes sense to repair it.
As Norbert pointed out, please verify which Bosch numbers your injectors have.
Viele Schraubergrüße - best regards, Dr-DJet Volker
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- Franks99E
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Yes I've yellow injectors and please see the pic for sensor screw.
Kind regards,
Frank
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- Dr-DJet
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I would say that someone has tried to open your MAP sensor but never managed. But I cannot say for sure. It would be great if I could measure your MAP sensors for reference.
Yellow injectors fit your 010 ECU. Your MAP sensors are also right ones and not 018 ?
Viele Schraubergrüße - best regards, Dr-DJet Volker
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- Dr-DJet
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I read your first statement again. It says that you use a bi-pole repair kit for your AAV and it did not work. What is that kit? Never heard of it. I repair my AAV with new thermo element, holder, sealing etc.
Viele Schraubergrüße - best regards, Dr-DJet Volker
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- Franks99E
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Sorry for the late reply; I also have a job which takes a lot of time sometimes.
Regarding the sensor; according to the workshop manual (see my firste photo) the 0 280 100 009 sensor matches
with the ECU 010 so it should be a good combination ?
Today I saw that the sensor vacuum connection was rather oily.
Can it be that if there was oil in the inlet manifold (from the cranckcase ventilation) that the sensor also got oil in it.
Is it possible to clean the sensor ? if yes, how ? or does that damage the membranes ?
I also read on the site that it is possible to adjust a type 2 sensor by adjusting a screw.
Is that correct ? would that be a solution for the too rich setting of the CO ?
Finally please let me know if you want me to send you the sensor and the ECU.
And any other parts if you wish.
Kind regards,
Frank
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- Dr-DJet
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I have seen such cases on some Opel and Volkswagen. You will not get the oil out in most cases as they have a shutter valve on most MAP sensors. What you can do VERY CAUTIOUSLY : Use a small plastic pin that will not break off to open that valve (if present) and hold it overhead. Then let oil drip out. Not a good but a workable try. I had MAP sensors that were drowned in oil.
NEVER PLAY with adjustment screws to compensate other mistakes on D-Jetronic. Whoever tried has detuned his MAP sensor and made things worse. Check that is was built in 70s, has rivets and does not leak vacuum. Then you can trust it in 99% of all cases.
I would like to measure your MAP sensor as a reference. But only if it was made in 70s (2 or 3 in mid of 3 digits on rivet) and was never opened. I do not need your ECU. I have references for all of them.
Viele Schraubergrüße - best regards, Dr-DJet Volker
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- Dr-DJet
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you did not reply on bi-pole repair kit of AAV. Would appreciate to know.
Viele Schraubergrüße - best regards, Dr-DJet Volker
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- Franks99E
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Thanks for the tip on draining the MAP sensor.
I used a wooden skewer, used the blund end, and let the sensor with the valve open lean on the skewer fitted in a clamp. It works.
There was much oil in it. Could that have been the cause of the high CO ?
If I send you the sensor and the ECU could you check both parts and
if neccessary rehaul the parts ? If so, can you tell me what the costs will be ?
Regarding the AAV kit; I'm still searching where I got it from.
On fuelinjectionproducts.com you can buy a new element (expensive) but on my site you could really buy only the inner element and it was not expensive.
I'll search some more and let you know.
Kind regards,
Frank
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- Franks99E
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www.aavpart.com
as you can see much cheaper then the 200$ the other site charges.
I don't know if they are still in business but you can try the email adres
Regards,
Frank
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- Dr-DJet
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this is not the correct element. Additionally it misses the holder sealing, fitting. Forget it.
Viele Schraubergrüße - best regards, Dr-DJet Volker
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- Franks99E
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The element came with a complete discription how to mount it.
Unfortunately I think I ruined my element during the installation by using a gastorch
for the mounting so my fault.
Regarding the sensor and ECU; can you clearify what you mean with the digits ?
How can I check if it's an original 70's sensor ?
Kind regards,
Frank
And regarding the ECU; could you check the settings ?
Or is the Bosch Service the only company who can ?
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- Dr-DJet
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this element is not the correct one. It has the same shape as the one I have once seen which did not have same temperature movements as the original. I cannot understand why they do not use the original thermostat. But it does not matter any more as you have destroyed your housing unfortunately.
Not only me but any Bosch Classic Service can verify your ECU. Ask a Bosch Service in your country. They should be able to send to Bosch Classic Koller & Schwemmer.
Viele Schraubergrüße - best regards, Dr-DJet Volker
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- Franks99E
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Thanks for the reply. Eventhough I destroyed my AAV I found a solution and got it working again. I made a homemade solution which I can tell you if you promise not to tell anyone

Anyway, can you still tell me how to check if my sensor is from the 70's ? the digit thing ?
Kind regards,
Frank
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- Dr-DJet
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either you have a 3 digit stamp on upper right rivet or a stamp on the back of your housing. If it reads 2 or 3 in the middle then it is from 70s.
No need to tell me your AAV solution. And I still tell you that the element on the picture you linked is the wrong one.
Viele Schraubergrüße - best regards, Dr-DJet Volker
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