Trigger Point Conumdrum

Hi
I managed to measure the trigger points taking the mark on the distributor as O degrees and used a rudimentary protractor. What do you think?

Oh I also managed to measure the nodes on the cam and they came out to be about 1.6 mm so this might be a bit of a worry???
Thanks
Peter

Hi Peter,
with a remaining node-height of 1,6 mm the unit wouldn't work anymore - absolutely sure.

Someone has bent the contacts or the contact sheet, so they can work again.

The distance between the opposite nodes should be about 23,0 mm. Measure this.

But that's no all. They have to be centered...

I developed a tool for adjusting them. Search for it at Benzworld, too.
If you have a lathe, you could produce it by yourself. I would send you a figure on demand by PM and the instructions.

I have some ready produced tools and shipping worldwide isn*t very expensive. But it takes time...

Regards
Norbert.

Hi Norbert
I sent you a pm thanks. But did you get a chance to have a look at the attachment drawing of the trigger points firing?
Regards
Peter

Hi Peter,
I looked at the drawing before.
And - it doesn't matter much if there is an offset or so..,
This is not a direct injection. The Jaguar V12 injects 6 cylinders at the same time and the engine runs smooth.

The contact's closing time should be around 180'.
You can see the green and the red line are much shorter.
Maybe the contacts don't close (or open, would be the same effect) securely and 'flutter'
The nodes are worn or the points are misadjusted.

You can see with my tool if you have a problem. There ist an adjustment range of about 0,8 mm (+/-0,4mm) for each point.
Misadjustment out of these limits leads to misfunction of this point - two injectors are missing or injecting too much fuel <if the points flutter>.
The contacts have to open securely and to close securely - contact must be clean, no electrical resistance.

That's all. The timing is made by the distributor-camshaft, but the timing is not so much important.
The ECU calculates the injection time - the points only give the timing that is not so essential.

Regards
Norbert

Ok the post is starting to get confusing (totally my fault) so I thought I would start again. Please look at previous posts for any relevant pictures...
Here is my problem. I was trying to clean the connector on the trigger point lead when it unexpectedly came apart (the car was working perfectly fine except for a little MB lunge when cruising). I did not see where the wires went. The problem was complicated because the wires coming from the distributor were not the original wires (see the photo). I tried to match them as best I could but I have since discovered that they were not in a matching order (I think I have it correct now).
I pulled the distributor out to find the correct connections but still can not get the engine to fire. I think I also knocked one of the contacts on the throttle valve switch of its track (second arrow to the left) but put it back on. I don't think it is working though.
I removed the trigger points and they have app. 1.8 mm left on the lip
I think there is good spark to the plugs.
I have set it with a timing light so it fires at TDC (unless it is 180 Degrees out) but the cam lugs are basically pointing up.
I have attached the analysis sheet that outlines the readings with and without the ECU connected and I would be very, very happy if someone had some ideas.....
Regards
Peter

Hi Peter,
I wrote before the adjustment of the trigger contacts is out of all limits.

Please measure the distance between the opposite blocks. Has to be 23,0 mm. At or near 24,0 mm the contacts don't open any more.

I wrote before the contacts have to be centered, too. You need the tool I developed to do the adjustment perfectly.

< I don't Know if the ECU can have been damaged when you misconnected the wires. Maybe Volker (Dr-DJet) knows it, but he is on vacation, But he looks at the new posts from time to time.>

Regards
Norbert