Trigger Point Conumdrum

But that does not adjust A/F ratio...

Ok I think I may have it.
Whilst it was running its was missing a lot. At first I thought it was spark but after testing and replacing a spark plug I pulled the injector leads off to see if that made any difference. Low and behold (I probably should have done this earlier) I found that 4 injectors / 2 banks were not firing. I tested the ECU again for the injector resistance ( and all were 1.6 Ohms). I then tested the ECU with an LED test light and both the Yellow (pin4) and Grey (pin 5) did not flash. I measured the voltage at the Trigger Point connector (whilst the car was running) and 2 pins measured roughly 2.7 - 3 Volts whilst the other 2 pins were around .035 Volts ( Iput all the results in the attached table. I have also included a picture of the original connections which caused all this dismay in the first question. So it sounds like Volker and Norbert were correct all along and the cam actuators are too far gone.
However, to be sure can I swap the solid colours of Yellow and Green and also White and Red (at the T/P connector) to see if the ECU reading/led test gives a different result. This should tell me whether it is the ECU or the Trigger points shouldn't it????
Regards
Peter

Hi Peter,

I am not sure I can follow you. But: All 4 signals on T.C. should deliver same voltage levels on a Multimeter. And they are connected one to one to ECU. There are nos. written on the connector. If not check my appendix B where you will also find those colours.

Hi Peter,
I don't understand why you don't readjust the points using my tool. This will bring the unit up to the original values and all trouble is gone.

All this measuring doesn't bring you any further on. You have a defective unit and have to fix it.

I can send you a figure so you can produce the tool on a lathe or I send you a ready produced one.

For sending the figure I need your real email-adress you can tell me via PM.
Please contact me this way, too, if you prefer a ready produced tool. Shipment is no problem.

Regards
Norbert

And I am not sure from that picture: Is it the type T.C. with cable connected and isolation brokw completely off? Then I would even guess that soldering inside that connector is now broken. And it is a hi temp soldering as well. Do not solder on it and swap cables.

Hi Norbert,
I'm sorry - I did make and use your tool and I thought that it tested well on the bench (with an Ohm meter). Y/Red and Y/Blue measured 145 degrees 'on" Whilst Y/Blue and Y/Green measured 155 Degrees 'on' ( 'on' means zero resistance) Unfortunately, Pin 4 and pin 5 on the ECU are not 'firing' (In red highlight) nor are the 4 injectors on these circuits.
What I do find strange is that I would have thought that the #22 T/P Connector (pin 4 on ECU) would have had a low voltage reading as it was not working.
Conversely, I would have thought Pin 3 on ECU #13 T/P connector would not fire as it does have a low voltage.
Sorry for the annoyance but I do appreciate your help - and if nothing else I am learning a lot about this car.