Swedish Opel distributor for GS/E

Now this seems to be a hard one.
Have you checked the voltage on the pump? Just measure voltage direct on pump terminals exactly when the fail occurs.  Another question, have the fail always been there, og could it by change occured when you build the electronic ignition ?
Just asking cause  my engine had a similar behavior (Except i never measured fuel pressure at that time).
I have also seen the water temp-sensor making the engine hard to handle. What occurs is that when  temp-sensor is getting hot, there can occur short circuit to chassis. Just measure ohm between the two pins and and GND when hot. Or put in a resistor about 600 ohm (check range in your manual).

The problem on my engine was the breaker points,  and ignition timing. The engine ran rough on idle,  and very late response when pressing gas pedal. On the opels there are two variants, first models came with vakuum-controlled distributor,  and the latest came with a fixed resistance mechanical "clock" on the distributor. Anyway,after replacing points and adjusting ignition the engine ran like a hero.

My experience is, on opels, rebuild to electronic ignition is not always a success. 

Can you describe the engine behavior a little more? Is it only problem  on idle , or is it also when driving?

If the pressure drop is not related to pump or fpr-valve, you may have a faulty injector,or cold start valve. East to check ,Just test with plier,one by one house.
That said, i was troubleshooting a 2.5E with a friend last year (L-JETRONIC). It ran fine, but when getting warm , the engine reduced power and ran very bad. We went down the same street as you,replaced every component without result. As a last try, were replaced the injector, voila!.
 

GSEJET77 wrote:

...
What occurs is that when  temp-sensor is getting hot, there can occur short circuit to chassis. Just measure ohm between the two pins and and GND when hot. Or put in a resistor about 600 ohm (...).
 

Hi Terje,
I don't understand wether the problem you describe nor the advice for a solution you give.
A short circuit to chassis would signalize 'engine very hot' to the ECU - and this is the state of the engine you describe. Installing a resistor with 600 Ohms would simulate a temperature of 60°C = engine that has not reached the normal operating temperature.
What do you intend by installing such a resistor?
[/quote]

GSEJET77 wrote:

...
On the opels there are two variants, first models came with vakuum-controlled distributor,  and the latest came with a fixed resistance mechanical "clock" on the distributor.
...
 

Hi Terje,
I don't know a D-Jet-equipped Opel without vacuum-can and automatic advance mechanism at / in the distributor.
What do you mean with "fixed resistance mechanical "clock""?
I think you could mean the Bosch TZH ignition system, but this was never installed to a D-Jet-car by factory.
The Commodore B GS/E is equipped with exactly the same parts as my car is, there have been some modifications during the model's lifetime, but only comparatively low ones.

Regards
Norbert

Hello Norbert

Well, the Commodore was,  as I Said, delivered with two types of distributors. I think there was a change in 1975, when the engine 28EC was throtteled from 160hp to 155 hp. After a certain point, the distributors were delivered without vacuum-steering, and the throttle-housing came without vacuum-nipple.  Instead of the vacuum,  there was mounted a fixed resitance that worked against rotation/centrifugal force in the distrutor(i can maybe be explained in another way).


When I wrote 600 ohm, i also wrote "ref your manual", my point was to set the engine out of the overheat-modus, wich i will be if shorted to ground.  My Main point is that the coolant temp sensor may seem ok, but can fail after a few minutes in hot water, causing engine to run rough or even die.

I will try to be more specific 

BR Terje 

 

Hi Terje,
this special version of the distributor is very interesting.
I was irritated by the word 'clock', I think you meant 'clog'??
Never saw or noticed this distributor... did a research and found out it must be Bosch # 0 231 301 317 - used only in cars built for Sweden from 12/1976 on following my old listing for the KAD cars - no information available on Bosch Classic - page nowadays.
In addition, the Bosch # 0 231 301 311 up  to 9/72, Bosch # 0 231 301 313 up to 12/74 and Bosch # 0 231 301 316 till end of production (not in Sweden...) were installed in the Commodore B GS/E.

Regarding the engine temp sensor, I didn't realize you want to correct the engine running too lean when a shortcut to ground occurs at the temp sensor line.
Yes, it can be very helpful to install a resistor about 200 Ohm instead of the sensor for testing this.

Regards
Norbert



 

Well, we call it a clock in my country,  but I maybe should use the Word "bell", the clock-word is from the shape of a curch-bell, and it is mounted om the outside og the distributor,  it is visually very similar to the vacuum-unit, except for that it has no nipple for vacuum-hose.

You did a good research there. I am pretty sure that my illustrated parts catalogue says that vaccum-distributor is "only Sweeden" for the later model.
I will check when i come home.

I think we agree , just a different language-and explanation issue.

Sweeden has other strange things regarding distributor.
On the 2.5E (Commodore C L-jetronic), sweeden as the only country, had a special distributor , where the connecting Rod from the vacuum-unit is connected in opposite direction , wich means that the vacuum is puling the distributor-plate opposite direction than the normal ditributors.
This was a brain-twister when we did the mentioned troubleshooting in the car with the defective injectors.

ok, i will stop here so I dont ruin the original thread. 

BR Terje 

Volker transfered the postings above from the thread jetronic.org/de/forum/jetronic/2344-fuel...ng-in-volvo-144-b20e to this new thread on my request.

Regards
Norbert